Black Point

For the next week we are headed out to explore some of the more remote Cays and get in touch with the local culture. Our destinations will follow a northern path in the Exumas. Mother Nature is our travel guide. The stormy weather is back just as predicted. Last night it began to blow again, 25-30, which made for a lumpy night. So today we will continue to explore the settlement of Black Point The school has 23 students grades K-8, so I thought it might be interesting to learn more about what goes on there.  The most attractive thing about the settlement is the people - friendly, outgoing, with local fish, baked goods and some interesting gardens.

We sailed into Black Point Harbour on Saturday late in the day. We ate at Lorraine’s Café where there was only one other customer. He was a Harvard Architecture student who was on assignment here to support the local people in land use issues. So, we had some interesting conversations about how these isolated islands can figure out a vision for their future and still keep the generational housing clusters that make up this settlement. Thus far, we had not seen any real development in the Exumas.

On Sunday we headed out snorkeling with Lisa and Patrick, on Gaia II. In our innocent requests: “ Hey do you guys want to go snorkeling?” we are fortunate to  end up with couples who have a real passion and expertise for the sport. Lisa and Patrick got married underwater in the Caymen Islands! So, while we sputter and shiver, they do some free diving in their wetsuits with underwater cameras and point out interesting and obscure fish, coral, barracudas and sharks. They also shared two excellent books.  Our Christmas list for next year should be easy…wetsuits, good masks, new fins and some reference guides for tropical reefs.

Maria Elaina’s Fituras de Caracol

Pounding to tenderize

On our long sail we put in an hour or so preparing the conch for fritters. We purchased the conch at the hairdressers in Georgetown, a multi-tasking retail business for sure. Maria instructed us to freeze it so that it would be easier to cut on the diagonal. After slicing it, we pounded it with a hammer (Maria uses a stone) and then cut it again. 

Except for the fishy odor, it was a good activity for a long ocean crossing.

Here is the “secret” recipe. She wrote it in Español, but the results were excellent so I believe my translation is correct. She has given permission to substitute clams, fish, or shrimp for the conch….if you don’t have all day to prepare.

Fituras de Caracol

1 cup flour

1 cup chopped conch

¼ tsp. baking powder

¼ cup chopped onion

¼ cup chopped pepper ( rojo is muy bueno)

Juice of a lemon

½ tsp hot Bahamian pepper chopped ( think habanero)

½ tsp thyme

½ cup water

Mix all ingredients, add water last. Drop by spoonful into hot oil in a frying pan. Brown on both sides.

Serve with “especial salsa” ketchup, mayo and hot sauce mixture

Frying up the good stuff!

Heading out to Black Point

We have a 10 knot wind and we’re on a nice reach heading out to Black Point.  We rolled out the screacher and will be following the Exuma chain heading north for 47 miles. The heavy winds have kept people in Georgetown for longer than they expected. Those heading south do not have enough of a weather window to get to Long Island before it blows up again.  The air is warm, the sky and the water are blue. The water depth is 3000 feet, so we are not getting the usual turquoise color in the water. We are traveling with three other boats with a dinner planned upon arrival. The saltine and ginger snap diet is currently in effect with sips of water on the side. We took our seasick medication, and are doing ok.

Community of Cruisers in Georgetow

Over the past month we have had an opportunity to meet a remarkable community of individuals and couples enjoying the cruising lifestyle.  It seems that there is almost an instant bond formed with the people you meet, as the lust for this lifestyle pulls together people who share similar interests and a sense of adventure.  The camaraderie among cruisers exceeded our expectations and has been  a welcome support to our first time in the Bahamas. From Jay and Debbie loaning us their outboard in a time of need, to Gayle and Bill teaching us so much about ocean life to Skip introducing us to the nature trails, and Maria Elena and Bert demonstrating that Argentinian cooking, it’s all been good.

Each day is a new adventure with promise and spontaneity. Time is the gift that takes on new meaning as your break away from the way you spend your time ashore. Of course there are the downsides, constant boat repair, weather challenges, long passages involving overnights and missing family and friends. But the Double Diamond has begun the journey home and we look forward to many more years of the cruising life.

Judy Droitcour: Early Works

In Georgtown I joined in the artists group, which met a few times a week on the beach. When someone handed me a paintbrush, I really did not know what to do with it. So, I dove in, Judy style, and I have enjoyed playing around with the water colors and looking at all of this natural beauty from a new perspective.  The learning continues.

Last night at Camp

We had the awards ceremony  last night and the farwell dance. It reminded me of the last night of sleepover camp. Everyone promising to be back next year. This has bee a wonderful experience, a very happy place for Andy and me. We met lots of people, we were active and we enjoyed living on the boat.

International Women’s Day

Our Venezuelan friend, Maria Elena, declared Thursday International Women’s Day…a day where we must leave our husbands on the boat, and dedicate our time to being powerful women. ( a great excuse to go out to lunch). We began with a walk on the beach, then off to Yoga

Gayle at the Helm

. On the way back from Yoga, we had to give the international sign for “our dingy motor has water in the gasoline”….por favor senior can you help us? We were towed back to Gayle’s boat where we changed the gas tank and our soaking wet underwear, and headed into town. After a day of shopping at the straw market, lunch at the Peace and Plenty,

 Maria took us to the grocery store, to walk us through all of the local ingredients that we were going to use as she was the guest chef on Spiroserpula that evening. On our way back from town, we experienced what the boys warned us about. For one mile, every wave broke over the bow and we were laughing harder than the engine noise. However, as the water reached our ankles, bailing and laughing became a simultaneous activity. 

Bert blows the conch to announce sunset and dinner

Revitalized with a nice shower, we had a fantastic supper using local ingredients and hot peppers in every course.  A great day and some wonderful new recipes to send us on our way to Staniel Cay.

Bill made mango-habenero ice cream. Zesty!