The Pink Store and the Blue Store

Staniel Cay is a  typical Bahamian settlement, For groceries you have the pink store and the blue store.

When you talk about a grocery store, The Pink Pearl is about as low key as you can imagine. We went in yesterday and the shelves were basically bare. The supply boat from Nassau hasn’t been in for a few weeks because of the weather.   We bought an onion and 6 cans of tonic. There are actually two grocery stores in town, the pink store and the blue store. I bought coffee cream at the blue store for $7.50. They had some that had an expiration date of January 19^th and even that wasn’t on sale. I think they could use a math consultant down here, as the shopkeepers are challenged by adding up the goods. Is this a sign that I should retire?

Pigs on the blanket

Ok, well the pigs got off the blanket and they went for a swim.  Crazy meeting up with a pig in the dingy. This was at Big Major on Staniel Cay, a Sunday morning swim. We were on our way to snorkel at Thunderball Grotto,
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Crew Change

Leaving the boat feeling refreshed, relaxed and ready for more adventure.  I found my happy place in the Bahamas and will be eager to return to fill in the gaps. I’ll catch up with Double Diamond in the Chesapeake.  David and Jeanne will arrive tomorrow. Next week Bruce Larson will join the crew and ride the Gulf Stream up to the US Coast. Wishing fair winds and following seas to the sailors aboard.

Casino Royale Bahamas Style

The Original 007 Gang at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club 1964

The Bahamian conch as a sex symbol

Party Scene Staniel Cay Yacht Club 2012

Rachel's Bubble Bath

The three dingy’s headed off to Compass Cay for an  afternoon at Rachel’s Bubble Bath

 Patrick brought Champagne, what’s a bubble bath with the bubbly?  We hiked up  a narrow salt water stream bed and at the end it becomes a pool, abutting a rock on the Exuma Sound.

The waves crash over the rock to form the bubbles. We waded around until high tide, and then the waves really came crashing through. ) Need that underwater camera again!)  After an afternoon of soaking, we all gathered on Living Well for an Island Dinner.

A Great Day of Sailing

We are trucking along at 9 knots on a 60 degree reach to Staniel Cay humming.  It’s quite a thrill ride today. Wind and weather conditions are perfect on  the Double Diamond. Andy and I have gotten to be a good sailing team. He was always good, let's just say my skills have improved and we are working well together.

 There is a big” Casino Royale” party tonight at Staniel Cay Yacht Club.

 The theme is James Bond, as the Thunderball Grotto, where we will snorkel this afternoon,  is where the filiming too place for Thunderball, the movie. We heard over the radio that lots of people are flying in  and many of  the Big Boys” are motoring/sailing in. Should be an interesting scene. I think we’re not in the Exuma Marine Park anymore. 

Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park

The Aquarium topside

Our first exploration took us to The Sea Aquarium at O’Briens’s Cay. This appropriately named snorkel site has an amazing variety of fish in a sheltered setting.   When we arrived we were the only ones there and as we jumped in it was raining fish. Apparently others have fed them, so they come right up to you by the hundreds seeking food.  The coral heads were large with all kinds of nooks and crannies for the fish to lay in waiting.  All of the spectaculars were present, the angel, parrot and lion fish. There are so many fish that we cannot identify yet. 

Our second stop was Airplane Reef. This is a triangular shaped reef in 25 feet of water. Undersea you are privy to a sunken small plane that went down in the 1980’s. Not a great image for my upcoming Flamingo Air flight, but a unique dive site.

Our final site was Molly’s Chunky Monkey. This is a series of coral reefs that are quite shallow. What a great place to have a camera, and you could practically bend over, at low tide, and see a variety of sponges, worms, and soft coral.  We are enamored with the sponges that look like the Grecian Urns. Often there are fish nesting inside the “ container” and it’s fun to explore what is lurking.

We took a hike over to the ocean side and then went back to the boat for lunch. As we relaxed with our books, we heard a familiar voice.  It was Lisa and Patrick anchoring Gaia. They decided to join us along with  Living Well and Gratitude. We were off for an afternoon adventure.

Reef Hunters

A meeting at the Pipe Creek Yacht Club

The Cow Fish lurking in the background

Each day we set out on our dingy in search of coral patches. We have learned so much about how to spot the potentially good sites, searching for patch coral at the appropriate depth. We watch the currents and the tides so we can maximize the sites, and then of course sometimes we are just plain lucky.   On this day we did some further exploration of Pipe Creek, so fortunate to have Lisa and Patrick to guide us with their therunderwater camera to document our adventures.

The Neighbors

 Returning from our snorkeling.we arrived to find the yacht Island Time  anchored too close for comfort.  The generator running and the bikini clad girls rubbing sunscreen on their bodies,  we were assuming that this was a quick lunch stop and they would be on their way. Not so, as they headed out in their 35 foot “dinghy” for some fishing. The jet skis roared from the stern.

When they returned  from their adventures, they began to dress for dinner.  Simultaneously a slender young woman with very white teeth paid us a visit and apologized for anchoring a little too close. As a piece offering she brought us the fresh catch of the day, all cleaned and ready for eating. 

Four dinners of fresh Mahi Mahi

Dinner number  1

She told us not to worry as they had a crew of 4, who would be covering the anchor watch throughout the night. The dinner party seemed quite lively. The next day the Chairman of the Board of Coca Cola flew into have a lunch bar-b-que.  We wished we had a 6 pack of Pepsi to sit on the deck and toast their luscious feast. 

Sampson Cay: Running Out of Adjectives

Each Cay that we visit has it’s own unique beauty. Currently we are at Sampson Cay, where there is a small exclusive resort, complete with a restaurant and some lovely hiking trails. 

















We did a full snorkeling trip  today  with Patrick and Lisa, who had spent time in the area previously, so they had  screened the sites.  We headed up to Pipe Creek, which is protected by Cays, except for where the inlets come in from the ocean side. So, we had some current to deal with as we entered the water, but the clarity of the water was amazing.

 Our first site was about 5 feet deep, with an abundance of coral heads. Our second site was like a sunken valley, an underwater botanical garden, where the sponges stole the show. They looked like greek urns, holding coral and anemones. Our final site was nearest the ocean cut and the fish were the most outstanding feature.  Currently I am sitting on a lovely Lanai, the birds are signing, the ocean waves lapping in the background, the sun is filtered through the palm trees.

A few raindrops, and then the lovely rainbow

Can't you see them circling honey?

Sunset kayak journey, the coral heads a burnished brown, reaching out of the turquoise water. Heading through a narrow cut out onto a sandbar. Hmmmm….I don’t think I’ve ever seen this many rays in the water at one time. Hmmmm….what is that fin?  Then a meandering fisherman yells out:”you know sharks eat kayakers”. There were 18 sharks hovering, and on the left I saw a local fish cleaning table, which was probably the attraction. After I returned to the DD, Andy and I took the dingy over to try to photograph the scene. Pretty hard to get a good shot. We returned to the boat for a swim, all the while looking over our shoulders for “shadows”. Apparently this area is known for people swimming with the sharks, but we think we need to learn more. 

Girls Gone Gaia

Lisa , our Captain

Gaia II preparing to sail

After a few rum drinks and watching the movie: Captain Ron, an idea was hatched that the following days sail would involve Patrick and Andy sailing Double Diamond and Lisa and Judy on Gaia. Patrick was eager to experience the Catamaran, and the girls were eager to show some women power.  Gaia is a ketch, a Whitby 42, and on this day, Lisa was the captain for sure.  We set sail from Black Point and our destination was Sampson Cay, about a 3 hour sail.  We had 15 knots of wind on a reach, the boat was heeling over nicely and the boat cat, Dobbie Fish, was purring and enjoying the ride.

At the same time DD was doing circles around the Gaia, eager to have some photo opportunities and demonstrate maneuverability. The boys were having a blast. We were also buddy sailing with two other boats, who were jumping in on the radio, reminding DD that they were now headed in the wrong direction and singing… “Slow down, you move too fast” ( 8.5 knots?) 

Well, then the wind picked up to around 20 and Gaia decided to reduce sail power.   As we attempted to haul in the genoa, we noted that it had wrapped around the furling drum, making it impossible to bring the sail in.  At that time our handheld in the cockpit died. We we had no shortage of men giving guidance over channel 16, but we could not go below to waste our time on the radio in the nav station.  Lisa jumped into action, giving Judy the helm. She said, “ just keep it on the white part of the chart, the water, and I’ll be back.” She was an amazing problem solver and had to bring the jib sheet all the way up to the bow and begin to unwind the line from the drum and bring it back to the cockpit. The sail was flailing and the land was approaching.  But we persevered. As we approached the anchorage, we were being hailed on the radio by the yacht behind us, so we climbed down to the nav station, Roger that!

We anchored the boat under Lisa's calm directions and then we toasted a truly significant event!

Black Point

For the next week we are headed out to explore some of the more remote Cays and get in touch with the local culture. Our destinations will follow a northern path in the Exumas. Mother Nature is our travel guide. The stormy weather is back just as predicted. Last night it began to blow again, 25-30, which made for a lumpy night. So today we will continue to explore the settlement of Black Point The school has 23 students grades K-8, so I thought it might be interesting to learn more about what goes on there.  The most attractive thing about the settlement is the people - friendly, outgoing, with local fish, baked goods and some interesting gardens.

We sailed into Black Point Harbour on Saturday late in the day. We ate at Lorraine’s Café where there was only one other customer. He was a Harvard Architecture student who was on assignment here to support the local people in land use issues. So, we had some interesting conversations about how these isolated islands can figure out a vision for their future and still keep the generational housing clusters that make up this settlement. Thus far, we had not seen any real development in the Exumas.

On Sunday we headed out snorkeling with Lisa and Patrick, on Gaia II. In our innocent requests: “ Hey do you guys want to go snorkeling?” we are fortunate to  end up with couples who have a real passion and expertise for the sport. Lisa and Patrick got married underwater in the Caymen Islands! So, while we sputter and shiver, they do some free diving in their wetsuits with underwater cameras and point out interesting and obscure fish, coral, barracudas and sharks. They also shared two excellent books.  Our Christmas list for next year should be easy…wetsuits, good masks, new fins and some reference guides for tropical reefs.

Maria Elaina’s Fituras de Caracol

Pounding to tenderize

On our long sail we put in an hour or so preparing the conch for fritters. We purchased the conch at the hairdressers in Georgetown, a multi-tasking retail business for sure. Maria instructed us to freeze it so that it would be easier to cut on the diagonal. After slicing it, we pounded it with a hammer (Maria uses a stone) and then cut it again. 

Except for the fishy odor, it was a good activity for a long ocean crossing.

Here is the “secret” recipe. She wrote it in Español, but the results were excellent so I believe my translation is correct. She has given permission to substitute clams, fish, or shrimp for the conch….if you don’t have all day to prepare.

Fituras de Caracol

1 cup flour

1 cup chopped conch

¼ tsp. baking powder

¼ cup chopped onion

¼ cup chopped pepper ( rojo is muy bueno)

Juice of a lemon

½ tsp hot Bahamian pepper chopped ( think habanero)

½ tsp thyme

½ cup water

Mix all ingredients, add water last. Drop by spoonful into hot oil in a frying pan. Brown on both sides.

Serve with “especial salsa” ketchup, mayo and hot sauce mixture

Frying up the good stuff!

Heading out to Black Point

We have a 10 knot wind and we’re on a nice reach heading out to Black Point.  We rolled out the screacher and will be following the Exuma chain heading north for 47 miles. The heavy winds have kept people in Georgetown for longer than they expected. Those heading south do not have enough of a weather window to get to Long Island before it blows up again.  The air is warm, the sky and the water are blue. The water depth is 3000 feet, so we are not getting the usual turquoise color in the water. We are traveling with three other boats with a dinner planned upon arrival. The saltine and ginger snap diet is currently in effect with sips of water on the side. We took our seasick medication, and are doing ok.

Community of Cruisers in Georgetow

Over the past month we have had an opportunity to meet a remarkable community of individuals and couples enjoying the cruising lifestyle.  It seems that there is almost an instant bond formed with the people you meet, as the lust for this lifestyle pulls together people who share similar interests and a sense of adventure.  The camaraderie among cruisers exceeded our expectations and has been  a welcome support to our first time in the Bahamas. From Jay and Debbie loaning us their outboard in a time of need, to Gayle and Bill teaching us so much about ocean life to Skip introducing us to the nature trails, and Maria Elena and Bert demonstrating that Argentinian cooking, it’s all been good.

Each day is a new adventure with promise and spontaneity. Time is the gift that takes on new meaning as your break away from the way you spend your time ashore. Of course there are the downsides, constant boat repair, weather challenges, long passages involving overnights and missing family and friends. But the Double Diamond has begun the journey home and we look forward to many more years of the cruising life.

Judy Droitcour: Early Works

In Georgtown I joined in the artists group, which met a few times a week on the beach. When someone handed me a paintbrush, I really did not know what to do with it. So, I dove in, Judy style, and I have enjoyed playing around with the water colors and looking at all of this natural beauty from a new perspective.  The learning continues.

Last night at Camp

We had the awards ceremony  last night and the farwell dance. It reminded me of the last night of sleepover camp. Everyone promising to be back next year. This has bee a wonderful experience, a very happy place for Andy and me. We met lots of people, we were active and we enjoyed living on the boat.

International Women’s Day

Our Venezuelan friend, Maria Elena, declared Thursday International Women’s Day…a day where we must leave our husbands on the boat, and dedicate our time to being powerful women. ( a great excuse to go out to lunch). We began with a walk on the beach, then off to Yoga

Gayle at the Helm

. On the way back from Yoga, we had to give the international sign for “our dingy motor has water in the gasoline”….por favor senior can you help us? We were towed back to Gayle’s boat where we changed the gas tank and our soaking wet underwear, and headed into town. After a day of shopping at the straw market, lunch at the Peace and Plenty,

 Maria took us to the grocery store, to walk us through all of the local ingredients that we were going to use as she was the guest chef on Spiroserpula that evening. On our way back from town, we experienced what the boys warned us about. For one mile, every wave broke over the bow and we were laughing harder than the engine noise. However, as the water reached our ankles, bailing and laughing became a simultaneous activity. 

Bert blows the conch to announce sunset and dinner

Revitalized with a nice shower, we had a fantastic supper using local ingredients and hot peppers in every course.  A great day and some wonderful new recipes to send us on our way to Staniel Cay.

Bill made mango-habenero ice cream. Zesty!